MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

The injectors would have been protected by the fuse which is good, so they'll be fine. I'd say the driver transistors should be OK, I'd say they're rated for the current and as it wasn't running for too long they won't have overheated. Get yourself some resistors for the injectors for a start (or ...

Short of further information I would guess that the injectors you are running are low impedance and that you have not got any PWM or resistors set up with them. At low duty cycle (low boost/off boost) the average current (which blows the fuse) would be less than 2.5A per injector. Once the duty ...

Wiring low-Z injectors in series would probably be fine (so long as they are of the same type. You may need a small resistor still (since they'll still be drawing 2A even in series). It would save on power supply current to the MS and reduce the amount of heat to dissipate through the resistor ...

Wiring low-Z injectors in series would probably be fine (so long as they are of the same type. You may need a small resistor still (since they'll still be drawing 2A even in series). It would save on power supply current to the MS and reduce the amount of heat to dissipate through the resistor ...

Is there power getting to your fuel pump, these symptoms could relate to that? if you have a fuel pressure gauge and it's showing the numbers your seeing then I guess all's well though.

With the speaker, it'll sound fine but the speaker will only be seeing 1/4 of the power the amp is putting in (in this case the speaker sees 12.5 of the 50 watts). It's not efficient but it will work fine..
The heat going into the fuel is partly due to resistive heating losses in the windings of the ...

Those idle revs look a little low?

Assuming that the engine is naturally aspirated you could try this approach:

obtain an adjustable power supply of some sort fitted with an ammeter and a voltmeter.
pipe the output from the pressure regulator to a measuring vessel with the fuel pump and regulator set up as it would be on the bike ...

You'd definately be better getting a smaller (and probably lighter) pump. The current drawn by the fuel pump is a product of the pump's design and the pressure it is pumping. With normal MAP referenced regulators the current consumption depends on manifold pressure and will be largest at highest ...

I would avoid lead solder (tends to fatigue) but bronze or silver solder should be OK. That said, I have a friend who used copper tubing for water pipes on his turbo and they fatigued and broke (after only a couple of months use so unlikely to be corrosion related) resulting in a blown engine ...