The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview. While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
Forum rules
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
I got it started. Only one problem now, I think my o2 is shot. I checked the wiring and its all correct with no resistance between the ecu and the 02. I checked the resistance of the o2 and there is an infinite amount between the signal wire and the ground. This should have a resistance value correct?
No, O2 sensor is open circuit when cold. They need to get to somewhere around 3-400°C before they start to conduct (7-800 before they conducts well).. Probably is ok, the onle way to check is to see if there's voltage when running rich and warmed up, or take it out and warm it up on the stove (not too fast), then check how quick the output changed when going from rich (in the flame/exhaust) to lean (out).. Don't know the specifics of that test though.
Exeter: (noun) the nut or bolt always left over after putting something back together (Douglas Adams, The meaning of Liff)
I can get it to idle, but I am having a really hard time getting the timing to match up. I can adjust the trigger angle anyway I want, and the crank pulley mark never even comes close to 15 degrees btdc. Am I missing something? Shouldn't adjusting the trigger angle change the timing?
How are you getting the tach signal? Is it EDIS or distirbuter set up. I recently installed the same setup on an older version of that engine. I found the most reliable way to get the car started and idle well was to set the dizzy to trigger at 10deg. This let me get a stable cranking spark at a known advance, and then it needed quite alot more advance once it caught to get it to idle happily (~25deg BTDC).
When I tried setting the trigger at 60-70deg BTDC for some reason the spark seemed to be all over the place and I couldn't get it to run with less than ~30deg advance.
I am using the neon 420a board mods with internal ignitors. The rpm signal is coming from the cam angle sensor and crank angle sensor. Used the appropriate pick up resistors to get that working.
Setting the ignition with the stock ecu consisted of moving the cam angle sensor until the timing reached 8 degrees btdc. From my reading, adjusting the trigger angle is doing the exact same thing as rotating the CAS. Is this correct? I noticed mine idled a lot better around 30 degrees BTDC, and the recommend trigger angle was in the 70's. I