EDIS... no spark
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
EDIS... no spark
I have an EDIS6 with Toyota coil packs. I have tried reversing the polarity, unplugging MSII, closing and opening the VR sensor gap from the initial .040". EDIS and coil voltage are around 11v when cranking. The VR sensor put out .08 volts ac during cranking too. I don't know if that rules out a bad VR though. An ideas?
According to the MegaJolt docs:
Here's some other things to check:
1.) Polarity of VR sensor. This is probably the #1 cause of no-spark issues with EDIS. Fortunately, it's a quick fix!
2.) Sensor Gap. Try closing the gap down to .010" or so, and re-test. You should see a noticable increase in AC voltage. If you have a low-cost AC voltmeter, perhaps it's putting too much load on the sensor, and mis-reading the voltage? Try a better meter if yours is suspect.
3.) Faulty VR Sensor - not common, but who knows.
4.) Faulty EDIS Module - again, not common.
5.) Incorrect Wheel Type. EDIS only works with a 36-1 wheel (35 teeth, and one gap). Any other tooth count will prevent the module from sync'ing.
Roger.
Are you using the stock wheel and VR sensor? I've run my EDIS modules on two different sensors, and two different wheels (none of Ford origin), and have never had a problem, but perhaps you've found some odd combination?...the EDIS module has a built-in VR signal hysteresis - when the VR signal is transitioning from negative-to-positive polarity (next tooth is approaching), the signal must reach 0.5 volts positive before the EDIS module will "arm". It then will "trigger" when the signal passes back thru zero from a positive-to-negative transistion, when the VR tip is aligned with the crank wheel tooth.
Here's some other things to check:
1.) Polarity of VR sensor. This is probably the #1 cause of no-spark issues with EDIS. Fortunately, it's a quick fix!
2.) Sensor Gap. Try closing the gap down to .010" or so, and re-test. You should see a noticable increase in AC voltage. If you have a low-cost AC voltmeter, perhaps it's putting too much load on the sensor, and mis-reading the voltage? Try a better meter if yours is suspect.
3.) Faulty VR Sensor - not common, but who knows.
4.) Faulty EDIS Module - again, not common.
5.) Incorrect Wheel Type. EDIS only works with a 36-1 wheel (35 teeth, and one gap). Any other tooth count will prevent the module from sync'ing.
Roger.
1979 Mazda RX-7, running MSnSExtra029L for fuel and spark control on a turbocharged, intercooled, and
(of course!) injected 13B rotary.
(of course!) injected 13B rotary.
Found the problem. The sheilding material got into one of my connections for the VR sensor at the splice. Heat shrink wasn't tight enough all the way around. It didn't show because I was checking everything with the plug disconnected. When I plugged it in it would ground it. Pin 7 is grounded only when plugged in. It starts now. 