future Microsquirt conversion????
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The VR sensors contain their own magnets so that they will work
on any iron or steel object ,
but they are extremely wimpy compared to the flywheel magnets .
The VR sensors create a voltage when ever their magnetic field is changed in any way .
New ingenious plan !!:P
Don't use any VR sensors at all , leave your original coils in place ,
permanently attach the spark plug wires to ground ,
then use the "Kill Switch" wires from each coil to give 2 VR signals .
This is the way to go , much simpler , and no bracket fabrication necessary .
The point about the relays is that you really don't need them for anything .
...................Jim
You will be using 2 separate ignition coils driven by MS for firing the plugs .
The Spark plug wires from the stock coils need to be
grounded out because they will still be trying to spark .
This can damage the coils if the spark has no place to go .
It can also let that high voltage get into other wiring and smoke something .
...................Jim
It's just a matter of how and where you mount your 2 new coils ,
a small motorcycle coil off of a dirt bike would probably be the best bet ,
they are water-proof and have a permanently attached , short , spark plug wire .
They are made to work under water ,
you shouldn't have any problems with them .
The Advance Tables would look similar to most cars ,
you have to experiment with timing to find out
how much timing you can run without the engine knocking ,
then back it off 3 to 4 degrees to create a safety zone .
You need to find out what your stock factory timing is with a timing light ,
this will give you a good place to start .
This type of engine will not tolerate heavy knocking (detonation) ,
but since it is air cooled and has a quiet muffler you can
easily hear any knocking or even "Trace Ping" ,
you can't miss it , the engine will sound like it's "tinkling".
If you hear knocking you should back off the throttle imeadiately ,
then back off the timing in that particular area of the Advance Table .
Once you have done all the Bins in the 100kPa row
you can enter everything else by hand
simply by adding 2 degrees to all those 100kPa numbers in the next row down ,
repeat , repeat , repeat , repeat , etc. ,
until the whole Table is filled-in .
...................Jim
I gotta ask and want an honest anwer, LOL .
I'm asking all these questions but need to know, I am crazy for going the FI route? Should leave the thing alone and try a few thing with the carb to try and fix the problem?
I want FI but have been told so many times " your crazy", don't know if that's good of bad!
Yes , your crazy ,
but everybody's got to have a hobby .
You could easily spend $1500 to $2000 dollars on this project ,
for a mud boat .
But if you spend a great deal of time running that boat ,
and the engine is driving you insane with the way it runs ,
it might be worth it .
I personally have spent more hours than I care to admit on
my 25 year old , $250 , POS , station wagon , but it's a
blast to drive and gets great gas mileage ,
I'm not worried about anyone crashing into it ,
and I haven't had a car payment since 1992 .
To each his own .
BTW you don't have to run ignition advance control , it's just a bonus ,
you can run MS off of one of your exsisting coils .
One wire from a coil to MS ,
2 wires and 2 fuel lines to the injector ,
one vacuum hose from the manifold to MS ,
a fuel pump and regulator ,
and one power switch for MS and the fuel pump .
If you go with the modified duplicate carb body you can switch from
MS to carb or carb to MS in a matter of half an hour .
This would eliminate any down time .
...................Jim