If you have a scope then I would just use the engine for cranking and unplug the injectors. That way you can't hurt anything. Leave everything as is and resolve the dwell issue. During cranking you say the dwell is about 3 ms, so on the scope it should show as a very small 3 ms high value compared to the space between the missing teeth from one rev to the next rev, which should be over 100 ms during cranking. If it is, then you must have the correct output polarity. From what you have said, this is in fact what you see during cranking. Are you saying that things change drastically when you go past cranking rpm to idle ? That would be really surprising. Plus if MT is showing your dwell as -22ms, that is an indication the code and/ or data is really screwed up. If your msq is from when you first started, then you need to save the current msq and compare it to the one you posted. The other possibility is that you have a bad VR input and the processor is going in and out of synch on noise and firing erratically. Does the rpm show as as a steady and reasonable number during cranking and idle ? Are there any momentary flips to 0 ? More importantly, does the scope show the ignition outputs as consistently spaced - with a 4 cyl you should have 2 pulses between the missing teeth from each of the 2 ignition outputs. Also the spark edges from output 2 should fall halfway between the spark ed ges of output 1.
As far as there being no change in the spark timing when you change trigger offset, here are some things to consider:
In dual spark mode, spark must occur before tdc. If it doesn't, it is forced to occur, so if you are really way off then the spark will keep occurring at tdc. Also during cranking, if using trigger rise, then the spark will fire when the tach pulses come in regardless of table advance. The processor has no way of knowing where tdc is except from what you tell it. It assumes that tdc is on the tooth after the missing tooth plus delay teeth and as modified by trigger offset. But if, after considering all this, you see the spark for output 1 coming in x deg btdc and MT says the advance is x deg btdc, then your timing is probably correct and you should be able to change it by 10 deg and see it on the scope.
Dwell has changed!!! Help!
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Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
I had my test stand allready set up for a 24-2 wheel, so I ran your msq. today.
I made a few changes an it seemed to work fine.
You have allready got your 6 tooth/75 deg offset with your delay teeth set to 5. So you dont need any offset in trigger offset. To set the trigger offset you need turn your motor over and using a timing light get the number you see with the timing light to match the big number you see in the trigger wizard using the +&- buttons.
You have your trigger set to rising edge which means you are triggering on the trailing edge of the tooth.
As far as the dwell, it stayed right at where it was set according to the guage in Megatune. Try this msq. and see what happens.
As Al said, it might be that the data got corrupted was what was causing your problem
I made a few changes an it seemed to work fine.
You have allready got your 6 tooth/75 deg offset with your delay teeth set to 5. So you dont need any offset in trigger offset. To set the trigger offset you need turn your motor over and using a timing light get the number you see with the timing light to match the big number you see in the trigger wizard using the +&- buttons.
You have your trigger set to rising edge which means you are triggering on the trailing edge of the tooth.
As far as the dwell, it stayed right at where it was set according to the guage in Megatune. Try this msq. and see what happens.
As Al said, it might be that the data got corrupted was what was causing your problem
- Attachments
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- test bench.msq
- Test
- (25.04 KiB) Downloaded 24 times
Your msq was working!!!!!!
It was the triggeroffset that was the problem!
Now it is just tuning!
Why did you set the skip pulses in base ignition setup to 3?
It seems like it starts more easy with 1 or 2!?
Maybe you have a good ignition start up map?
How can I set up the microsquirt for the mapsensor I use?
And one more thing, how can I change the range in the RPM gauge in MT?
Here is the msq I used today with suscces
It was the triggeroffset that was the problem!
Now it is just tuning!
Why did you set the skip pulses in base ignition setup to 3?
It seems like it starts more easy with 1 or 2!?
Maybe you have a good ignition start up map?
How can I set up the microsquirt for the mapsensor I use?
And one more thing, how can I change the range in the RPM gauge in MT?
Here is the msq I used today with suscces
- Attachments
-
- Engine running, tuning needed.msq
- (25.04 KiB) Downloaded 35 times
Glad it worked out for you.
As far as the skip pulse setting,this is just what I happened to have it set at. Really haven't experimented with that setting.
To calibrate the map sensor you need to have the specifications for it. If you can't find the spec's you need to find a way to apply vacuum and pressure to the sensor, with an accurate guage attatched and find out what the reading are at 0v and 5v. You then enter these values int the sensor calibration under the tools menu.
I Know it probably not easy for you to aquire, but the MPX sensor is pretty cheap and the spec's for these are in the help file.
To change any of the guage look at this post.
http://www.microsquirt.com/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=
As far as the skip pulse setting,this is just what I happened to have it set at. Really haven't experimented with that setting.
To calibrate the map sensor you need to have the specifications for it. If you can't find the spec's you need to find a way to apply vacuum and pressure to the sensor, with an accurate guage attatched and find out what the reading are at 0v and 5v. You then enter these values int the sensor calibration under the tools menu.
I Know it probably not easy for you to aquire, but the MPX sensor is pretty cheap and the spec's for these are in the help file.
To change any of the guage look at this post.
http://www.microsquirt.com/viewtopic.ph ... highlight=