i finally deceided to try and tune the top end revs and throotle on my bike.
i thought the dyno would be the safer option !
the problem is megatune kept resetting...and once the revs started going over 5000 the whole screen kept freezing.
i am using the latest version of megatune, with a serial to usb adapter. i never have any problems connecting....
the only thing i did notice that a couple of the gauges kept flickering.
the dyno guy said he had seen this before...it is caused by sonic vibrations ?
my laptop did crash and i got the windows blue screen.
any thoughts on this ????
Bike died on the dyno
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
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newtyres1
- Helpful Squirter
- Posts: 139
- Joined: Mon Feb 06, 2006 7:32 pm
- Location: Brisbane, Australia
Re: Bike died on the dyno
Don't scare me like that! I thought you had an engine failure (from the thread title).
I guess you have logged over 5000rpm before and the logs are OK?
Was the laptop running on batteries or through an ac adaptor?
Ian.
I guess you have logged over 5000rpm before and the logs are OK?
Was the laptop running on batteries or through an ac adaptor?
Ian.
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Matt Cramer
- Super Squirter
- Posts: 910
- Joined: Sat Jul 03, 2004 11:35 am
Re: Bike died on the dyno
I've seen loose USB adapters vibrate around and cause communication glitches, or even make MegaTune freeze up.
Matt Cramer at DIY Autotune
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pommie02
Re: Bike died on the dyno
the laptop was ruuning on ac. it was ok at low throttle. but as soon as i went over half settings it started messing around.
and the bike did die...i had to get it towed home.
it would run. but as soon as i opened the throttle the engine died.
it took me ages to find the problem....my glass fuel filter had broken, im not sure if it was vibration.
but its fixed now....i hope
and the bike did die...i had to get it towed home.
it would run. but as soon as i opened the throttle the engine died.
it took me ages to find the problem....my glass fuel filter had broken, im not sure if it was vibration.
but its fixed now....i hope
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SQLGUY
- Experienced Squirter
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 3:03 am
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Glass fuel filter?
The glass filters I've seen are not rated for high pressure FI use. Is yours so rated, or is it on the LP side of the pump?
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pommie02
Re: Bike died on the dyno
its not fixed...
broke down again.
the problems gets worse as the engine gets hotter.
and whe the engine goes over 5000 revs.
i managed to get a log....6 resets in about 5 mins. the fuel pump seems ok, when it happens my wideband controller resets and the engine dies.
i have to switch the engine kill switch off then on again.
broke down again.
the problems gets worse as the engine gets hotter.
and whe the engine goes over 5000 revs.
i managed to get a log....6 resets in about 5 mins. the fuel pump seems ok, when it happens my wideband controller resets and the engine dies.
i have to switch the engine kill switch off then on again.
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SQLGUY
- Experienced Squirter
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- Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 3:03 am
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Bike died on the dyno
A couple of thoughts:
1. I was having problems with my setup kind of freaking out over 4500RPM. If I was just revving the engine (no load), it would usuallly recover; if it was under load, I'd have to switch ignition off and back on to restore it. This turned out to be overdriving of the VR inputs, and adding 22K resistors in series fixed it.
2. If your VE map is relatively close, or at least a bit rich, you should be able to safely run without the wideband for a bit. Taking the wideband and its controller out of the equation would make it easier to see whether what you're seeing is the source of the problem or a symptom.
1. I was having problems with my setup kind of freaking out over 4500RPM. If I was just revving the engine (no load), it would usuallly recover; if it was under load, I'd have to switch ignition off and back on to restore it. This turned out to be overdriving of the VR inputs, and adding 22K resistors in series fixed it.
2. If your VE map is relatively close, or at least a bit rich, you should be able to safely run without the wideband for a bit. Taking the wideband and its controller out of the equation would make it easier to see whether what you're seeing is the source of the problem or a symptom.
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pommie02
Re: Bike died on the dyno
Im using the option +, - ve with a 24v zener diode.
what ever the problem is ...it flattens my battery pretty quick and gets worse the longer the bike runs.
i am going to have a look at my charging system and starter motor...just to make sure its all ok
what ever the problem is ...it flattens my battery pretty quick and gets worse the longer the bike runs.
i am going to have a look at my charging system and starter motor...just to make sure its all ok
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SQLGUY
- Experienced Squirter
- Posts: 243
- Joined: Sun May 14, 2006 3:03 am
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Re: Bike died on the dyno
Back to back zeners or....?
Since the VR signal is an AC signal, a single zener between the + and - inputs would effectively short out half the pulse (and still be dropping possibly some decent power when clipping in the other direction). I'm not sure how long a typical 1/2W zener would last like that.
If it's between + and ground, then you could still be seeing some pretty large negative amplitude at higher RPMs.
Since the VR signal is an AC signal, a single zener between the + and - inputs would effectively short out half the pulse (and still be dropping possibly some decent power when clipping in the other direction). I'm not sure how long a typical 1/2W zener would last like that.
If it's between + and ground, then you could still be seeing some pretty large negative amplitude at higher RPMs.
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pommie02
Re: Bike died on the dyno
no its on the +ve wire going to one of my coils...
the -ve is going to the engine block.
basically i put it inline to cut out the spikes that i was getting back from the coil. its been fine for about 500 k's. but know i cant even load up the engine without it dying on me.
i know my charging system is out of spec..it only pushes out 13.5 volts at 3000 revs, it should be over 14 volts.
i just cant work out whatever happens kills the battery really quickly.
i might have to hook up a volt meter and ride it to see what happens
the -ve is going to the engine block.
basically i put it inline to cut out the spikes that i was getting back from the coil. its been fine for about 500 k's. but know i cant even load up the engine without it dying on me.
i know my charging system is out of spec..it only pushes out 13.5 volts at 3000 revs, it should be over 14 volts.
i just cant work out whatever happens kills the battery really quickly.
i might have to hook up a volt meter and ride it to see what happens