The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
Forum rules
Forum rules
Read the manual to see if your question is answered there before posting. If you have questions about MS1/Extra or MS2/Extra or other non-B&G code configuration or tuning, please post them at http://www.msextra.com The full forum rules are here: Forum Rules, be sure to read them all regularly.
dontz125 wrote:big snip... saving quite a bit of power.
I moved to LED indicators, stop, tail and dash lights + used HIDs instead of 55/60W bulbs, so I've saved a bit too.
I use the LC1 & Bosch wideband sensor on the Thunderace lump, but haven't taken it down the road yet and found out how long a OEM battery lasts, as most times I have a boost battery connected, to minimise voltage fluctuations at idle and part throttle, whilst I set it up.
Not looking for a pat on the back (well maybe ) but having 900watts available on my "lump", for all manner project requirements is definately working out well.
In this case I did find some cheese @ the shop (for Monty Python enthusiasts)
The BMW Bosch charging circuit had 280watts, best case scenario with new parts and tended to discharge a stock bike unless running at higher road speeds.
Upfitting a small mitsubishi alt was kind of different, but definately has worked out, looks pretty normal too.
It's sounding more like this is a bigger issue than has been previously addressed..... Anyway, I am now stuck with a $300 (LC-1 controller and Bosch WBO2 sensor) that I can't utilize on this project... That's not helping me to think great thoughts about the overall project, even though I have had good success with this ms unit. I'm left feeling like I was led to think and do, just to find out it really wasn't feasable or sensible.... just saying it the way it is, it's a moral thing, comes from a catholic upbringing you know... appreciate your help on this one.
OK, basic stuff first...
Why are you using Wideband?
Are you going to use it once the bike is "tuned"?
I would jump a boost battery across the thing for now, and measure the current draw, which might mean fitting a rack and top box scenario and dragging a car battery along for the ride.
Is this current draw peculiar to the automotive Bosch sensor? as bikes have them too, and maybe their current requirements are smaller. You could always flog the LC1 controller and buy a Tech Edge unit (2JO) if you want to use another sensor (NTK) or try and calibrate the LC1 controller to suit another make.
Personally, if this is a doom and gloom scenario, once your bike is tuned the Wideband can be junked, or use a circuit that only switches it on once you generate enough current, because you don't really need it for warm up and cold starting, just leaning off under cruise, as a safety feature which is most likely over the alternator switching in rpm values.
I don't understand why you've coming up short on watts.
I've got a Kawasaki EX-250 for my microsquirt project and I'm using an LC-1 on it. It has a Datel voltmeter wired into the electrical system so I've got a constant readout on the battery's status when the engine isn't running and an overview of the whole system's status when the engine is running. I haven't had any problems meeting the electrical needs of everything in the system (fuel injection system components, lighting, heated grips). The LC-1 definitely doesn't overdraw the battery when I switch the key on and when the bike is running I get a very healthy 14.3 reading on the voltmeter.
My favorite EX-250 enthusiast website says the bike's electrical system is good for maybe a little over 180w. I've got LEDs in the bike's tail lights to save some watts over the original incandescent lighting, so my estimate is that I've got about 85 to 90W total to run the fuel injection system (Suzuki LT-R450 fuel pump, the Microsquirt, the various sensors including the LC-1).
My LC-1 seems to heat up quickly. Actually, it's hard to tell when it's heating and when it's not heating (watching voltmeter fluctuations after switching the key on).
Hello All,
So I recently decided to go through an Alternator upgrade, the current Alt. output is capable of; 28A and 400 watts, upgraded Alt. is capable of ; 45A and 600 watts. I rewired the bike by removing the stock fuse box and going with a newer ZX10 fuse box and relay box. In the process, I found that the stock 14G feed wire from the battery to the old fuse box was running hot, which indicated a bad wire or the wire was too small for the 30A main and 10A Accessory it was supposed to be able to carry. I rewired using 10G wire, a couple of relays and now my charging system is showing 14.5V volts at startup and never drops below 12.5V anymore. So I reconfigured and initialized the WBO2 and now I'm getting AFR numbers, but I keep getting a cylinder firing missing when I try to use the autotune function and have the AFR set to 13.5 (it seems to be a lean condition), How do I know that I have the correct parameters set in the LC-1 controller and the correct parameters set in the ms controller? I think it is about a full AFR unit off from the displayed value...Can someone please spell out the settings for me in easy lingo? like a a 3 year old so I don't get it wrong? Thank you, Paul
I can officially bring this issue to a close, yesterday I took the bike down to the local shop where they had the Dyno. I used their WBO2 on their system to check the functioning of my system. I was correct, it was exactly 1 AFR unit off (lean). I then went and selected calibrate sensor again and chose Innovate 0v-5v, let it download the table and then restarted the ms unit. This time, the AFR on the dyno, matched the AFR i was getting from the megatune software. I then went and checked the "logworks3: software from Innovate that i downloaded for the controller, but it was still showing 1 AFR unit leaner..... HMMMMM???? anyway, tuning was much easier after that, within a couple of hours of riding, the bike was very responsive, running strong and efficiently. I was easily hitting the target values I had selected for power at WOT and fuel economy below 50% throttle. The best of both worlds!
) but having 900watts available on my "lump", for all manner project requirements is definately working out well.
