RPM from ignition coil on Honda Pacific Coast giving garbage

[DouglasVB]

Hello everyone,

This is my first post on the MicroSquirt forum so before I get down to my question, I figured I should briefly introduce myself and the project. I'm a motorcycle enthusiast living in the greater Denver, Colorado area. My fuel injection odyssey started in 2011 when I was in school in Oregon. The IPCRC (Honda Pacific Coast Yahoo group) had discussed for some time if it was possible to fuel inject a Honda Pacific Coast PC800. I decided to find out. My project went in fits and starts over the years based on funds and time available. After purchasing a MicroSquirt in May of 2011, I was only able to pick at the project periodically as I finished up my degree and moved into a full-time job in the summer of 2012.

Now that I have a proper garage (for a long time I worked under a blue plastic tarp in a parking lot), I have gotten back to working on my Pacific Coast fuel injection project. This summer I've made large strides and am now to the point where I am trying to fire up the bike for the first time. All of my activities are documented here: http://www.douglasvanbossuyt.com/catego ... injection/

The current state of the bike has a hacked together throttle body installed on the bike with all sensors in place and operating correctly. The injectors appear to be firing correctly. The fuel pump is working. The wideband O2 sensor (Innovative LM-1) is installed and also appears to be properly functioning. I am currently trying to do fuel only because the trigger wheel on the bike has an irregular tooth pattern that I have been led to believe will not work with the stock programming on a MicroSquirt. Part number 22 on this page shows what the trigger wheel looks like http://www.pc800shopmanual.org/PC800SMPage9-6.html In the future I am considering replacing the trigger wheel with a more standard missing-tooth wheel so that I can also control spark. For now though I'm trying to minimize engine modifications. Because of that, I am sensing RPM from one of the two coils on the bike. I followed the directions here http://www.useasydocs.com/details/coiltrig.htm and then added the additional components suggested here http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic ... 48#p389775. When I tested this setup a month or two ago before my throttle body was complete, I found that I was getting some noise. Moving a wire and adding the additional components fixed that problem.

Now today I am finding that I am getting a great deal of noise when I crank the bike. Here is a MegaLog file of the RPM noise:

2014-08-01_11.14.55.msl

megalog file of RPM noise

(25.89 KiB) Downloaded 56 times

Also here is the tune file as it stands:

2014-08-01_11.44.08.msq

current tune

(27.89 KiB) Downloaded 57 times

I've looked at the usual suspects for nose but am not seeing any obvious source. The one possibility is that the MicroSquirt is situated next to the fuel pump. On my Pacific Coast, I'm short on space to cram electronics into the bike.

So, fuel injection friends, what are your thoughts on my situation? I'm all ears for any ideas!

-Douglas

[DouglasVB]

Update: I figured out my problem. It's really dumb.

I had the OPTION+ and OPTION- wires reversed. The OPTION- should go to a +12V source and the OPTION+ should go to the ground on the spark generator.

Here's a video of it idling for the first time: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k183KylcOHM

Now I have to figure out how to tune the bike.

Yay!

[24c]

Hi,
Have you calibrated the TPS & other temperature sensors, as TPS didn't seem to move much on the gauge.
Mike

[dontz125]

Douglas - take another look at that trigger wheel. Unless I'm going blind in my old age, that's a very pretty 8-1 crank wheel. Connect the OEM VR sensor directly to VR1+ & VR1-.

[24c]

Hi Don,
You're not going blind, but where did you see that? I knew the GoldWing had a 12-1 wheel, but here's the PC800, #10 in the attachment.

PC800_trigger_wheel.png

(149.62 KiB) Not downloaded yet

The only thing here is the PC800 has two VR sensors spaced at the V twin angle, so ideally you'd only need a one tooth trigger wheel, but as Doug has got it running & idling, maybe he should just get his fuelling and warm up running OK, then play with this set up later.

Mike

[dontz125]

Ummm ... yeah - that's an 8-1 trigger wheel. Douglas' second link in his first post was to a similar fiche; he mentioned part #22, and sure enough, it looks just like your #10.

What am I missing?

With two VRs. you can either run Dual Trigger, or just use a single VR and run as an oddfire.

[24c]

Don,
I thought if you have 2 VRs you can't run a missing tooth wheel, but you can with one VR and odd fire. It just means Doug has to separate one of the VRs and get digging with a timing light.
Isn't that right?

Mike

[dontz125]

I stand corrected - go with an M-N crank wheel and a single sensor.

[24c]

Don
No worries, I blame all the firmware variations.

Mike