MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

We decided to engage the our engine dyno to smooth out the speed fluctuations with some extra inertia... and it worked

http://notcooperedu.org/~vaugha/scope_24.png

The engine is now sparking where we expect it, although I can't run it until Monday because of the lab's safety regulations. As for moving the missing tooth, it's fairly difficult to do this, as we have to remove the head to modify the stock trigger wheel.

Thank you all for your help... hopefully I'll have good news on Monday, and hopefully once the engine is broken in, this wont be an issue to start the engine without the dyno attached.

bigbrotherjohn wrote:I think that the YZF and the GSXR set up would be very similiar, I have a good cank and cam signal now but I am not sure about how to configure the ignition options, what dual spak settings did you use? Rising Cam Sync with Tach or Wheel? or M-0 Wheel with Rising Crank Sync? I am having a hard time understanding which one to chose and the differences between them.

Sorry, just seen this, here is an early .msq when I was running B&G 2.890, that'll give you the basic settings I used, but I have a 4 tooth crank wheel and a cam lobe (one tooth) wheel with identical VR sensors on both.

Perhaps you can help me?, did you take any pictures of your R55 mod? I need to do this or mod the R48 to lower the offset voltage, as I cannot generate enough voltage unless I "hit" the cam lobe with the sensor.

24c - What about a hall-effect cam sensor, like the R6 cam or speed sensors? There is no threshold voltage, just 'close enough' for the lobe to trip the sensor.

dontz125 I didn't know about the R6 being a Hall effect, I'll check out the dimensions and try and get one.
Thanks for that.