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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2005 6:58 pm
by robf
One in the same
So ~$50 for the housing, hose barbs, and pigtail? Then just a matter of sourcing the motor&o-ring?
Any idea on the cheapest source for a new motor?
Thanks,
Rob
Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 11:36 am
by robf
bump for an update.
Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 1:56 pm
by FoundSoul
Update is I've got em and I've just been too slammed to get them listed on the site-- I'll do my best to make that happen tomorrow--
Currently he doesn't have the pigtail as a part of the package but we are looking to offer those pretty soon as well. This first batch will be a bit cheaper too-- they look pretty good, we're going to change machinist though in the future as the finish could be a bit better but I think we're just being picky....
Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:37 am
by FoundSoul
OK- I made it happen. These are listed up on the site now and the first batch of them is going to go for the 'introductory' price of $40. I know Richard is looking for feedback on them but I think we've got a pretty solid product here from the looks of it. Here's a link:
http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/cust ... -p-69.html
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 5:47 am
by kiato4
Just to confirm, will the bolt on GM IAC with the 4 pin inline connector on this page
http://www.msefi.com/msinfo/ms2/IAC.htm work with this body?
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 6:27 am
by FoundSoul
I'm going to let Richard comment on this-- I know he designed it using the Jeep 4.0l Inline 6 (1992) IAC and the MS2 will control this IAC valve perfectly. That GM valve looks pretty similar but I don't have one here to test at the moment...
Richard?
Posted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 7:56 am
by darkstarmedia
It should so long as the o-ring sits flat against the flange. there is a GM type where there is an additional step on the Idle air control valve that holds the o-ring, that type won't work. if it looks like the one on the website it should.
Richard
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:14 pm
by 88TSI_Rob
I recently purchased this housing and pigtail from DIYautotune (nice work guys!).
Today I picked up the '92 Jeep I-6 IAC (pn: AC Delco 217-207) that is recommended on DIYautotune and while doing a dry fitting I noticed that the pintle does not seal, the hole in the housing is larger and there is an air gap all around (it's not huge, maybe a 1mm or less).
I was under the impression that it is supposed to seal.
The other thing that is throwing me off is this picture:
http://www.megasquirt.info/ms2/GMIAC.jpg
The IAC I have doesn't look exactly like either one, mine looks like it's made up of the top half of the one on the right and the bottom half of the one on the left (which appears to have a smaller pintle).
Did I get the wrong IAC?
Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 3:54 pm
by darkstarmedia
I just double checked my setups and if you remove the pintle it shouldn't go through the hole. the largest dia. under the lip should be .490 and the largest dia. should be .550 . At full extention it should be around 1.6 inches long.
Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:00 am
by GS guy
I also picke up one of the IAC housings from DIYautotune - nice looking piece, though I may do a little custom trimming to remove some of the extra material around the inlet-outlet fittings.
One question - does the orientation of the housing/valve matter? I'd like to mount it with the pintle shaft horizontal - facing the inlet and outlet fittings straight up. Well OK - 2 questions - how well does the IAC valve stand up to a boosted inlect tract? I'm using it on a turbocharged engine. Any special considerations for that type application?
Thanks,
Jeff
