MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

You have 2 Huge magnets on the perimeter of the flywheel ,
they are so powerful , you will have to use them ,
a bolt head won't work at all with those magnets flying around .

2 VR sensor inputs is very cool , simplifies things alot .

...................Jim

Will the magnets affect the VR sensors?

BTW, I forgot to mention, I have a auto relay box that has 3 relay's, 1 high amp and 2 low amp. It's small is size and will work perfect.

The magnets are so powerfull that you must use them .

The VR sensors contain their own magnets so that they will work
on any iron or steel object ,
but they are extremely wimpy compared to the flywheel magnets .

The VR sensors create a voltage when ever their magnetic field is changed in any way .

New ingenious plan !!:P
Don't use any VR sensors at all , leave your original coils in place ,
permanently attach the spark plug wires to ground ,
then use the "Kill Switch" wires from each coil to give 2 VR signals .
This is the way to go , much simpler , and no bracket fabrication necessary .

The point about the relays is that you really don't need them for anything .

...................Jim

You lost me on this one.

Plug wires to ground? How will the plugs get spark?

"kill switch" wires? Are you saying, instead of them going to the ignition switch, send them to MS for a trigger signal?

You will be using the stock coils as VR sensors .

You will be using 2 separate ignition coils driven by MS for firing the plugs .

The Spark plug wires from the stock coils need to be
grounded out because they will still be trying to spark .

This can damage the coils if the spark has no place to go .

It can also let that high voltage get into other wiring and smoke something .

...................Jim

That is an ingenius plan..... I am not big on the COP setup. I want to keep everything as protected as possible. The motor is in such a harsh enviroment all the time I would be afraid of it getting kicked or bumped, broken or wet when in use.

What would the timing advance tables look like?

You have COP right now .

It's just a matter of how and where you mount your 2 new coils ,
a small motorcycle coil off of a dirt bike would probably be the best bet ,
they are water-proof and have a permanently attached , short , spark plug wire .

They are made to work under water ,
you shouldn't have any problems with them .

The Advance Tables would look similar to most cars ,
you have to experiment with timing to find out
how much timing you can run without the engine knocking ,
then back it off 3 to 4 degrees to create a safety zone .

You need to find out what your stock factory timing is with a timing light ,
this will give you a good place to start .

This type of engine will not tolerate heavy knocking (detonation) ,
but since it is air cooled and has a quiet muffler you can
easily hear any knocking or even "Trace Ping" ,
you can't miss it , the engine will sound like it's "tinkling".
If you hear knocking you should back off the throttle imeadiately ,
then back off the timing in that particular area of the Advance Table .
Once you have done all the Bins in the 100kPa row
you can enter everything else by hand
simply by adding 2 degrees to all those 100kPa numbers in the next row down ,
repeat , repeat , repeat , repeat , etc. ,
until the whole Table is filled-in .

...................Jim

OK

I gotta ask and want an honest anwer, LOL .

I'm asking all these questions but need to know, I am crazy for going the FI route? Should leave the thing alone and try a few thing with the carb to try and fix the problem?

I want FI but have been told so many times " your crazy", don't know if that's good of bad!

Well....

Yes , your crazy ,
but everybody's got to have a hobby .

You could easily spend $1500 to $2000 dollars on this project ,

for a mud boat .

But if you spend a great deal of time running that boat ,
and the engine is driving you insane with the way it runs ,
it might be worth it .

I personally have spent more hours than I care to admit on
my 25 year old , $250 , POS , station wagon , but it's a
blast to drive and gets great gas mileage ,
I'm not worried about anyone crashing into it ,
and I haven't had a car payment since 1992 .

To each his own .

BTW you don't have to run ignition advance control , it's just a bonus ,
you can run MS off of one of your exsisting coils .

One wire from a coil to MS ,
2 wires and 2 fuel lines to the injector ,
one vacuum hose from the manifold to MS ,
a fuel pump and regulator ,
and one power switch for MS and the fuel pump .

If you go with the modified duplicate carb body you can switch from
MS to carb or carb to MS in a matter of half an hour .
This would eliminate any down time .


...................Jim

Thank's for your honesty, at least you concour with everyone else and now I know where I stand. I'm crazy!

Thought about just doing fuel but if the motor is going to run brtter and smoother with advance, why not! If it's avail. I'll use it, can't hurt.

Thank's, Keith