Microsquirt v3 timing/fuel issues.

[ilostmymindcom]

So, I bought this: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/micr ... p-131.html
I'm trying to run my 4g63 with a 24-1 cam wheel.
This is a DOHC inline 4 cylinder with 8.5:1 compression and ~257* cams. Running wasted spark with a neon 420a coil pack and a 1990 DSM ignitor,Low imp 950cc injectors with an obd1 honda resistor box.
I wired it all up and what not, but it does the same thing that my MS3 was doing. It seems to be firing the timing regular, and 180* off.
That can be seen here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgQzBBEZIys
It was to hard to get a view of the bottom of the crank but, the timing light shows it exactly 180* opposite.
I tried switching wire 1 with 4 and 2 with 3, and it runs the same. (wasted spark)
I tried switching bank 1 (1+4) wires with bank 2 (2+3) also, that did not run at all.
This is making my exhaust header glow very bright. (not good for my parts)
I also noticed that it seems to have a "mechanical" advance to it; as the rpms go up, the timing advances. I can take a video of that if anyone wants to see that.
I'm about at my wits end.
I've attached a log and my msq.

[mfro]

I'd say its pretty impossible your engine would do anything but pop with the ignition 180° off. My first wild guess would be you have your timing light on cylinder 4 instead of 1.

Glowing pipes at idle are a sign of (slightly) retarded ignition (off by 10-20 degrees, exhaust gas is still burning when exhaust valve opens).

[ilostmymindcom]

dig this.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uOICqXJDjU
^that's a lean idle, with cool egts.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0m-5oA_z28s
^in this video, I richen it up, and the egt's skyrocket.

the 180* off firing is probably because of the wasted spark setup.
I tried setting #2 offset to 0,90,180, maybe a couple others, but 0 or 90 is what it seems to run with. I tried swapping plug wires to banks, and it doesn't work unless I make the trigger angle around 300+.

this was supposed to be a quick easy install.. ehhhh.

[ilostmymindcom]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ika5QmhoPfw
The leds are loose and the plugs have been fouled. (I think that is why they are sporadic as pairs.) The video is slowed down to 25% of original speed.
I am using the 24-1 with a second 1 tooth tdc wheel. so 24-1/1 I guess. I can omit the second trigger though if that is a better option.
#1 is on the left of both injector leds and spark plugs. 1-2-3-4
firing order is 1-3-4-2, or bank1-bank2. wasted spark.
I will upload my msq and a trigger log once I grab the laptop.

[ilostmymindcom]

as promised.

[grippo]

I think the problem is you are running in a mode the code was not designed to handle, namely wasted spark with a cam wheel. That setup is by nature sequential, but microsquirt only has 2 ignition outputs. Since you have 4 cylinders, you need 4 ignition outputs for sequential. But in thinking about it, if you have 2 wasted spark coils, which is what I assume you have. it should spark (1,4 wasted), then (2,3 wasted) then (1 wasted,4) then (2 wasted, 3), with 180 crank degrees between each pair of sparks. So if the firing order is 1, 2, 4, 3 this should work. On the good side there is nothing wrong with your cam wheel signal - there is no noise on it.

If I get a chance I will try running your setup tomorrow and scope it and see what it is doing and what inputs might need to be changed to make it work. You don't want to mess with odd-angle if this is an even fire engine - it may appear to help but it will never work properly.

[ilostmymindcom]

I did notice in the manual, http://www.useasydocs.com/details/dualspark.htm , it says use a negative offset. I have only been trying positives

and it doesn't work unless I make the trigger angle around 300+.

Thank you grippo for trying to help. I would like to get this thing on the street by the end of next month, and I'm waiting on the engine to run so I can test my trans and actually tune it.

[grippo]

Ok I ran your msq (the 1st one) and it ran just as is. On the scope the space between the missing teeth represents 720 deg since wheel is cam mounted. If I take the falling edge of the 1st tooth after the gap as 0 deg then I get sparks as follows:
Ign2 --- 134 deg later
Ign1 --- 314 deg
Ign2 --- 494 deg
Ign1 --- 674 deg
These are all crank deg and are all 180 crank deg apart. Each tooth on the 24 tooth wheel represents 30 crank deg. Also there are 2 injections per 720 deg on Inj1 and also 2 on Inj2. So this is what we should see, except now we have to fool with the trigger offset. I ran the first time with Trig Offset = 27 deg (what you had). Then I set it to 0 and got that the Ign 1 - 674 deg went to 705 deg and when I doubled it to 54 deg spark occurred at 654 deg, again all relative to the 1st tooth after the missing one. These are not exactly +/- 27 deg, but it was difficult to read degrees exactly from the teeth on the scope. But knowing your engine you should be able to figure what offset to get the spark to come out where you want it.

About trigger offset, you want to use the auto trigger (http://www.megamanual.com/seq/autotrig.htm) diagram to figure trigger offet. From your msq it looks like you didn't even though auto trig was selected. In addition to selecting it on the menu, you need to make sure Auto Trig is activated in TS - under File, Project Propertires, Settings. Also, with auto trigger trigger offset is always pos, 0 to 360 deg.

[ilostmymindcom]

Well, I guess I am just insane.
I continue trying the same thing over and over again, and continue to get the same results.
I've verified spark is hitting at 15* with the timing light, pretty solid.
I don't know if it is important or not, but I am using an optical sensor with a trigger disk with slots. The trigger disk works on MS3 and MS1-MSNSe. I have about ~50* of manual adjustment on it.
http://pictures.nsfabrication.com/d/8492-1/IMG_5999.JPG
^that, just with this:
http://ilostmymind.com/shop/images/4g63241wheel.jpg
with one hole filled in the outter ring to make it a 24-1.
I am running the sensor output into vr-1 with a 12v pullup resistor.
The tune in the first post is what runs the engine. I've tried trigger offsets up to 360*, watching the timing light fire farther and farther off.
I did change the fuel injector timing from 0 to 580*(default).
If the wideband shows 22afr, the exhaust doesn't glow, it starts to glow at about 15afr.
I have not tried to switch injector banks yet. I will try that at some point, I just need to get away from this thing before I go crazy.

//edit: thank you grippo for the information, at least I know my source if confirmed working. Now I just need to impliment it properly. Autotrigger is enabled.

[ilostmymindcom]

swapped injector banks, now it's running under 400c egt at idle. it was hitting 700c+.
I will continue testing and report back.