Can't get my injecter to fire. I am new/lost.

[great08]

Hey guys. Sorry to go off subject.

I too own a KLR650. I am also considering doing a FI conversion but am trying to get all of the facts straite in my head before making a move and buying parts.

My question is... could I not go ahead and hook up most of the sensors and microsquirt system and run them on my stock system for a while and log data for stock A/F ratios under certain conditions? Then hook up a basic FI system running off of those basic sensors... Then in my spare time(some day on a still running/usable bike) try and adapt the ignition system to be one of the controlled factors in the FI system?

Or would the microsquirt not be able to properly function without control over the ignition???



Sorry for the newbie questions. I am still in the very beggining of the learning process. Here is a thread a fellow KLR guy started and did not finish. I am attempting(poorly I might add) to pick up where he left off.

Marty

P.S. For the fuel tank return line I know that my 08' does not have one. However, the Cali version does have one built in to the tank! So your 07's Cali version may have that as a viable option(or the 08'-newer tank may fit your bike)... if you don't like the thought of attaching a potentially leaky elbow yourself.

[24c]

Besides a few sensors, all you need is an acceptable trigger. Your KLR is carbed, so initially you'd be looking at ignition only. I have no idea what triggers you have on the crank etc, but assuming you can mod or adapt these to one of the preconfigured wheels/trigger on the info page, then there is no reason why you can't just run an ignition only set up. This is usually the hardest bit anyway, but you can probably find ignition info for your bike anyway. If your bike is using the throttle position (TPS) or vacuum (MAP) for its ignition advance/retard even better.

After this, you can if you so wish, log your O2 readings with a wideband sensor, so you can possible map an AFR table, but there is unlikely anything to be that new here, so a generic version that you will tweak later will suffice.

Quick checklist
1. Check compatibility of triggering.
2. Run ignition, learn more stuff and collect parts for EFI
3. Fuel inject later (winter project)

[great08]

Besides a few sensors, all you need is an acceptable trigger. Your KLR is carbed, so initially you'd be looking at ignition only. I have no idea what triggers you have on the crank etc, but assuming you can mod or adapt these to one of the preconfigured wheels/trigger on the info page, then there is no reason why you can't just run an ignition only set up. This is usually the hardest bit anyway, but you can probably find ignition info for your bike anyway. If your bike is using the throttle position (TPS) or vacuum (MAP) for its ignition advance/retard even better.

After this, you can if you so wish, log your O2 readings with a wideband sensor, so you can possible map an AFR table, but there is unlikely anything to be that new here, so a generic version that you will tweak later will suffice.

Quick checklist
1. Check compatibility of triggering.
2. Run ignition, learn more stuff and collect parts for EFI
3. Fuel inject later (winter project)

Thanks for the response. I def. have a ton more reading to do. Just now after weeks of finding spare time am I beginning to understand some things. I have a basic idea in my head of what I want to do now. With several ideas of directional paths to take.


I have found that my bike uses wasted spark and does have a crank sensor I may be able to tap into later. No cam sensor though So I would have to rigg that one up. Looking in my shop manual I see where I can do that though.

I have decided to go for fuel first with alfa-N though. As I may only mess with the ignition during a valve check in another 7k miles. OR I may end up keeping the stock ignition since my bike's stocker barb is a CV and can run pretty well lean. Only testing different things will make my mind up on that one. I know I'll end up with a wideband O2 gauge mounted on my handlebars. So I can keep the fuel economy up while driving around. lol

I have a looong way to go. This will be fun. Down side is that I do not own a garage... and riding season is year round here where I live. So I'll be borrowing garages or renting a storage until.

[great08]

I have a single cylinder engine and I am attempting to run Fuel Only without ignition control.

The injector tests fine. I can even get the bike to run for 3secs on the fuel produced during the test.

I have tied into the stock crank sensor and can get a tach reading. My bike has wasted spark so I adjusted to where it is reading correct rpms now.

For some reason my fuel injector does not fire off during startup. Is there a setting somewhere I may be missing? Or do I need to clean up the timing sense signal somehow? Or do I also need to tie the other sensor sense wire into the tach signal coming from the igniter(goes to the coil)?

Should I tie directly into the coil somehow? That way the MS will sense the timing advance? My bike's manual says it digitally advances it's timing up to 30deg @ 4300rpm.

I feel so lost.

Thanks,

Marty

[great08]

I have EVERYTHING done. Just attempting to get the KLR started now. For some reason I can sense rpms but can't get the injector to fire during cranking. The injector goes into test mode just fine.

Here is a link to a thread on the issue...
http://www.microsquirt.com/viewtopic.php?f=89&t=24017

[Matt Cramer]

Could you post a data log of an attempted start and a copy of your MSQ?

[great08]

Could you post a data log of an attempted start and a copy of your MSQ?

OK Sure. My old computer out in the garage just hard crashed yesterday and isn't coming back up though. So I am getting a newer computer and attempting to use the Serial/USB adapter. I looked @ probably over a hundred new computers and none of them come with Serial connectors anymore. It is going to be a few days before the new cable arrives. I'm getting a new micro laptop today to take with me on the road.

I could not get the datalog program to open on that old computer for some reason anyways.

I can give the specs of the crank sensor according to the manual...
2.0V or more
101-151 Ohms resistance
That means it's a Hall type sensor right?

That should produce a clear signal. Oh, and I would like to add that my crank sensor has only one single tooth.

Marty

[24c]

...
101-151 Ohms resistance
That means it's a Hall type sensor right?..

Not sure, my OEM VR sensor is 120 Ohms ±30, so the question is how many wires go to your sensor? Two or three?

PS I think your crank wheel not sensor has one tooth.

PPS You can get a CardBus or ExpressCard RS232 adapter, which might be a useful way to add RS232 capability to a new laptop.

[great08]

...
101-151 Ohms resistance
That means it's a Hall type sensor right?..

Not sure, my OEM VR sensor is 120 Ohms ±30, so the question is how many wires go to your sensor? Two or three?

PS I think your crank wheel not sensor has one tooth.

PPS You can get a CardBus or ExpressCard RS232 adapter, which might be a useful way to add RS232 capability to a new laptop.

I saw that typo after I had posted and didn't bother going back and fixing it. lol Yes the tooth is def. on the crank.

I just got a RS232 to USB adapter @ a local computer store and am currently setting it up!

According to my wiring schematic there is only two wires going to the sensor... but the Kawi books have many many flaws. I believe I saw an actual pic of the sensor somewhere... I will take a look after I get the laptop setup.

Marty

[great08]

OK.

I got the new computer setup(aka bought a new computer). I reloaded the software onto everything... even the motorcycle.

I went back through the setup stuff and attempted to start the bike.

She actually started up this time for a few seconds... 5-8secs.

Then all of a sudden there is no more tach signal. Now there is nothing at all! I am so confused guys.

I wish I had the megalog going!


I took a look @ the specs on my crank sensor. Peak V = 2.0V or more. Peak Ohms is 101-151Ohms.
There are only two wires according to the schematic... and all of the pics I could find in the manual. Do you think it is a Halls sensor or VR? I am still a little confused on how to tell what is what.

Thanks,

Marty