MicroSquirt.com read only forum (Jan.15,2018)

Hey guys, Just thought i'd throw up a quick I've finished verifying the hardware side of the sequencer and the initial code set looks a treat - I plan on starting the disassembly of my current setup in the car and should have it wired up and in a position to turn the key in approx 2-3 weekends. But first I need to fabricate some oil catch cans as I have 2 big breathers on the top of my valve covers but I want to mount my LS1 coil packs on the cover instead with the OEM bracket they all bolt too.

I'm also going to source more pins locally for the A35 connector so I can run as many grounds as possible (read: overkill it!)

Has anyone gotten any closer to firing an engine yet?

Kris

krisr wrote:H
Has anyone gotten any closer to firing an engine yet?

Kris

Well my Honda F4i engine teststand is running pretty well on MicroSquirt - I am getting up to the 13,000 RPM readline

http://www.flickr.com/photos/33848833@N07/

So next weekend I will attempt a swap with the sequencer. I will first run with no cam sync, it should reduce to a microsquirt. I need to take the cam out and grind off some cam sync bumps in order to provide one sync pulse per 720 rev. So, I too may be a few weeks away from running an engine, so the contest is still afoot!

- Bruce

Remember i'm competing against you guys from "across the pond" so anything I need to buy incurs a delay in freight .... that's my excuse if I dont get there first

i'm hoping to light the fuse this coming weekend.

i have been through the simulated signals in a lot of detail, and it is outputting exactly as expected.

i underestimated how much more new wiring is required. dang nest. and it's a balance of wiring for 'proof of concept' vs. making permanent looms. well... right now i'm leaning more toward 'proof of concept' to make sure it works, so i get to do all this wiring again (hopefully).

Kris- great idea to get new pins so you can just plug in the wire directly instead of splicing. Man... those ampseal connectors are nice. VERY easy to swap around. *** edited to add: wait... you got a 12 foot loom didn't you? either way... i found that the pins come out and swap real nice, so when i do final wiring, i'm going to crimp new pins directly onto my injector grounds & coil signal wires.

I'm waiting for a stock PCM harness to hack up, I put the request in to my favorite yard but they had a bad industrial accident so its on the back burner while they deal with the police etc.

I agree that loose pins would be easier to deal with and less expensive.

Yeah, I plan on wiring up different colours for each cylinder but each cylinder's IGN/INJ wire colours will be the same.

ca434sbc4 wrote: I agree that loose pins would be easier to deal with and less expensive.

I personally had a complete nightmare with loose pins on the ampseal. They look all nice when they are crimped, but when loose they are not easy to work with. Mainly getting the crimp part back into the ampseal. Tried the needle-nose plier route and butchered up 50% of the pins, even after doing hundreds of them. I have several different crimpers for various pins types but none worked 100% on the pins. The main problem is that the crimp ears are very long and they need to be crimped with the "B" shape. If you just fold over both ears and mash with pliers then there is ear parts remaining that prevents them from going into the bore of the ampseal. So you have to go and snip these off. It gets extremely old after the second crimping...

What I ended up doing was cutting off the crimp ears and soldering the wires

We can offer pins only, I just suspect it may become a support nightmare.

- Bruce

Bruce-

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the problems you were having.

With the Looms that came with the unit, I did some swapping. As per the instruction sheet for the ampseal, i pulled the red wedgie thing out, and the installed pins removed with a simple twist and pull. they reinserted into new holes with a click. slide the red wedgie thing back, and it was done.

Were all the provide wires crimped with an industrial machine rather than by hand? I did not do any new crimping with new pins; were those hard to crimp by hand?

Bruce Bowling wrote:We can offer pins only, I just suspect it may become a support nightmare.

I tend to agree with you there BUT I still would offer a "pin only" method for those that already have an MS2 system and are looking at maybe snipping the DB37 off and just re-terminating into the ampseal green side.

Personally i'm going to be getting a heap of loose pins and crimping them myself with assorted tools I have (It's DIY boys! ) and maybe a bit of solder for paranoia, but honestly if you're going to offer harnesses for the sequencer, I would offer alot longer runs with them. DIY's 12' harness was perfect for my car when mounting the ECU up under the dash & even had a bit left over.

I'd like to comment on this also.I was really hoping for a 12' sequencer harness but the Idea of just a plug and terminals has a real appeal for an upgrade to the sequencer from an older MS. Never even considered just a plug and pins. I think this is a great option and has my vote as a cost saver. Probably not for everyone, but I think It's worth a consideration.
I just want to reduce the splicing needed and don't mind crimping terminals. The sensor connectors are available in shell and pins.

Anyone willing to post a digikey part number for the shell and pins?? I think I found the shell but haven't been able to locate the pins.

Joe

Note: Just excited to get my hands on a Sequencer.