The MegaSquirt Project has experienced explosive growth other the years, with hundreds of new MS installations occurring every week - a phenomenal success! MegaSquirt has been successfully used in all aspects of Internal Combustion engine applications including R&D, Industry, Race, and Research. The MS project has transformed itself from a simple R&D project into a full-featured mature engine control system. To reflect this the support structure has also changed to meet the needs of MegaSquirt Users.
Moving forward, the R&D forums for MegaSquirt project are in a read-only mode - no new forum posts are accepted.
However the forums will remain available for view, they still contain a wealth of information on how MegaSquirt works, how it is installed and used. Feel free to search the forums for information, facts, and overview.While the R&D forum traffic has slowed in recent years, this is not at all a reflection of Megasquirt users, which continue to grow year after year. What has changed is that the method of MegaSquirt support today has rapidly moved to Facebook, this is where the vast majority of interaction is happening now. For those not on Facebook the msextra forums is another place for product support. Finally, for product selection assistance, all of the MegaSquirt vendors are there to help you select a system, along with all of the required pieces to make it complete.
For engine experimenters, the MicroSquirt® PCB is offered in a module format with enhanced capabilities to be plugged into other boards. This is the place to discuss the MicroSquirt Module.
My name is Tony, I am looking at the possibility of using the Microsquirt EFI /ECU to run a Weber MPE-750 engine. This engine is a lot like a bike engine, two cylinder, 750 cc, high rpm (8000 ). It is used in various sport vehicles, snowmobiles, watercraft, UTV's and others. I am nearly total ignorant on EFI, so some of my questions may be on the edge of DUH, but will try to learn as quickly as possible. In my quick evaluation of this product, it looks like I may also need the relay board and maybe a injector driver board. Will welcome any advice or experience that I can get. Thanks to all that would reply..
I don't see any problem with using it, although you'll want to be sure the trigger system for the ignition is compatible with the Microsquirt, or replace it with one that is. See this page for details.
The Microsquirt can drive two low impedance injectors, so I don't see a need for an injector box. Most small engine installs use relays on wires instead of the relay board to conserve space.
Regarding my above post on the Weber MPE-750 engine (dated Oct 06 2010) I am having almost no success in getting this ECU to remotely work. The specs on the engine are as follows, 4 stroke 2 cylinder parallel twin, 60-2 crank timing wheel with VR sensor. Single lug trigger on cam for Hall sensor. COP ignition with alternating ignition and injector firing (OEM ECU is either Bosch or Walbro depending on vehicle). Temp sensor is 2 wire, TPS is typical , injectors are high impedance.
Have seperated sensor wiring from Ignition/ Injector wiring making 2 seperate looms and shielded the injector/ignition wiring. First oddity that was discovered was the Crank VR sensor had 2 wires plus a shield. After some considerable study it was determined that on of the VR wires was to go to the center wire on the coax cable from the ECU and the other wire was to go the the shield. The shield on the sensor pigtail went to engine ground.
On first attempt to programm about a hour was spent trying to get the ECU to talk to the computer before it was discovered that serial jack was bad, replaced this and communication was established. On first programming attempt, when the engine was being tested for results ( fuel pump disable and coil and plugs removed and plugs grounded) no RPM was noted but one plug did not fire at all and the other fired, as someone said in another post "LIKE A TASER or seemingly on every tooth. Unit had been set to "Microsquirt= 2" but thought maybe some of the other parameters were not right so went through everything again. Now I get NADA, NOTHING, ZIP no RPM nor spark however the computer and the ECU will talk to each other as I can change variou settings and even do the "re boot" as is required on some of the changes.
About the only thing I have not tried is reversing the wires on the VR sensor but I would not think this would literally kill everything, I will try this next, if no results then i think it is time to send the unit in for testing ????
I'd like to check your settings; could you please post a copy of your tune file? I can go over it and look for issues that will keep it from seeing RPM.
Thanks for the quick reply. Often see a request for a MSQ and a log file,-----remember, I'm from the old points and condenser era how do I go about performing these two procedures
Try setting the trigger offset to zero and adjusting the timing with the Skip Teeth. I'm not sure the wheel decoder likes a negative 330 degree offset.
Also, try turning off the cam wheel input by putting it in single crank wheel input mode. This will help rule out one sensor being an issue.
Thanks for the reply and suggestions, will try these possibly later today. Yes that is a negative 330 degrees, it is quite confusing to me as well. Was trying to understand the timing where they state that with Dual Spark you do not want positive degrees, wanted between 25 and 30 degrees so I put in a negative 330.
Well some success, did as you suggested, set trigger offset to zero and set timing for single crank wheel mode----and HUSTON WE GOT SPARK--- Also noticed I now have RPM on the Tuners Studio, however the tachometer on the vehicle jumps between about 300 rpm to 1000 rpm. Also noticed yesterday that the "battery"indicator on the Tuner Studio was turning red during cranking so today replaced the "lawnmower" battery with full size car battery and battery indicator stays green. Have tried to include todays MSG and Data Logs,hope they are accurate .
Sorry, seem only one of the files loaded, will try again. Sure is rough being being born in one generation of technology and waking up about 6 generation later.
how do I go about performing these two procedures 
Also noticed I now have RPM on the Tuners Studio, however the tachometer on the vehicle jumps between about 300 rpm to 1000 rpm. Also noticed yesterday that the "battery"indicator on the Tuner Studio was turning red during cranking so today replaced the "lawnmower" battery with full size car battery and battery indicator stays green. Have tried to include todays MSG and Data Logs,hope they are accurate .